When people speak of the glories of multiculturalism, writes Dalrymple,
they are mostly thinking of a lot of different restaurants, rather than Pali epigraphy or Somali tribal structure.
In big cities nowadays, waiters
Dalrymple says that
this new food paganism, the reverence for ingredients and the way in which they are produced (or ‘sourced’, always responsibly of course), irritates me. It seems to imply that one is supposed to do more with the food on one’s plate than merely to eat it. When the explanations are too elaborate, one begins to feel unworthy of what one is about to eat.