The new food paganism

Screen Shot 2016-04-17 at 14.41.45When people speak of the glories of multiculturalism, writes Dalrymple,

they are mostly thinking of a lot of different restaurants, rather than Pali epigraphy or Somali tribal structure.

In big cities nowadays, waiters

Screen Shot 2016-04-17 at 14.38.05prance around telling the diners that the kale or quinoa was picked by vestal virgins on the first full moon after the equinox.

Dalrymple says that

Screen Shot 2016-04-17 at 14.45.56this new food paganism, the reverence for ingredients and the way in which they are produced (or ‘sourced’, always responsibly of course), irritates me. It seems to imply that one is supposed to do more with the food on one’s plate than merely to eat it. When the explanations are too elaborate, one begins to feel unworthy of what one is about to eat.

Screen Shot 2016-04-17 at 14.52.38Screen Shot 2016-04-17 at 14.54.55

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