The agony of English meals

Gooseberries, writes Dalrymple,

were always served, in the England of my childhood, with custard, a yellow concoction with lumps in it and a skin that sent shivers down your spine. The lumps and skin were regarded in the same light as outdoor team games in inclement weather: they were character-building. Meals in England in those days were treated as an ordeal which had to be gone through.

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